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Author Topic: Gah, some parts in, not all!  (Read 392 times)
batfly
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« on: Feb 12, 2011 »

LOL, my SP lpr, NDZ front cap with microline/cocker tube nipple, and NDZ slik shot ram came in today!  Yet to arrive is the actual microline (blue, oooo!) and NDZ stainless steel midweight hammer.  OH the wait is killing me lol.

the lpr does fit into the asa like i was planning, do they make an extender?  what is the thread for the lpr/prv/asa hole?  i'm assume it's npt but 3/16th?  doesn't look big enough for 1/2".  or is it?  help lol.  also, what can i use for a gauge see the lpr pressure?  does it have to be able to fit the microline? or can i put one in the back hole near the noid?


anyone have any spare patience?  not like i can test anything, my tank needs to be hydro tested.  going to do that monday most likely.

fun fun!


OH last thing, does the stock valve need the big spring still that's in the front cap?  should i just leave it there till i  get a rip valve?

thanks again everyone for the help!
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batfly
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« Reply #1 on: Feb 12, 2011 »

ok, i just saw in the manual that the reg plugs are 1/4".  my eyes must be tired tonight, thought they looked larger than that lol.  so 1/4" npt?  time for more research Smiley 

and should i locktite, just plumbers tape, or have nothing on the lpr when screwed in?
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batfly
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« Reply #2 on: Feb 12, 2011 »

HAHA, i'm answering my own questions.  turns out i was guessing by the outside diameter of the fittings.  the info i was coming across kept saying 1/8" npt.  just didn't seems right but it is.  this site has some great info, could maybe even be incorporated into the IO Library:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-national-pipe-taper-threads-d_750.html

quick quote:
"Note! [NPT] Pipe sizes do not refer to any physical dimensions. The outside diameter of a pipe or fitting must be measured and compared to a table for size identification. A 3/4" NPT pipe thread has an outside diameter - OD - of 1.050 inches."

pretty cool.  also all npt fittings should be used with teflon (plumbers) tape for a correct seal.

i found what gauges to use (can even use an air inlet npt adapter on the back and just use a tire gauge for a quick lpr readout!  explained as option #4 here:
http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintball_add_lpr_gauge_imp.html


so remaining unanswered questions are:

*does the stock valve need the big spring still that's in the front cap?  should i just leave it there till i get a rip valve?

and the important one:
*does anyone have any spare patience for sale Cheesy


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BlacknRed
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« Reply #3 on: Feb 12, 2011 »

Yes you need that spring.  Otherwise the valve would not return and pppppppppssssssss goes your air.
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